Combine warm water (or beer), yeast, and sugar in a stand mixer bowl. Stir and let sit 5–7 minutes until bubbly.
Add flour and kosher salt. Using the dough hook, mix until combined, then knead on medium about 5 minutes until a smooth ball forms, adding flour 1 tbsp at a time if too sticky.
Cover and let rise in a warm spot about 1 hour, until doubled.
Knead briefly, divide into 4 pieces, roll into ~22-inch ropes, and twist into pretzels.
Whisk warm water and baking soda in a large bowl. Dip each pretzel until submerged, then lift out and let drip.
Oven: Bake at 450°F on a parchment-lined sheet for 10–12 minutes, until deep golden brown.
Air fryer: Air fry at 350°F in a single layer for 6–8 minutes, flipping halfway. Work in batches.
Brush hot pretzels with melted butter and sprinkle with salt, or dip buttered pretzels in cinnamon sugar.